Hijab – The headscarf

As a western woman in Iran, you should wear a hijab everywhere: on public places, in hotels, cafés, in the metro, in buses and on airplanes. So really everywhere, where you cannot close the door behind you and just be on your own. To be honest, due to the fact that in the first days of my trip we had 35° celsius, wearing a hijab was just annoying. While in Germany or other states a scarf is a nice accessory, that you wear at the neck, in Iran you wear it on your head.

The good news is, you get used to wear it. It depends on the situation and the place or city, how many or how few hairs you should cover. In some regions like the Capitol Tehran you can wear the scarf just loose over your topknot like I did and show your hairline. In the beginning of my Iran backpacking trip I always took care of not showing too many hair (blond – OMG!!!), but you will get more confident with the time and will get a feeling for the situation. Most of the younger Persian women also are very easy in wearing their hijabs. Could that be a their little revolution…?

As I said, in most places there is no problem to wear it loose. However, please remember that you have to wear a hijab. I don’t think that you would like to stay at a Persian police station for a couple of hours to be given a sermon or even worse things. In the end, how many hair you should show just depends on your courage and the situation. But that is just my opinion. So better watch out!

Manto – The Jacket

Another part of the female dress code is a Manto, a longer jacket that reaches to the mid of your legs. Not tapered, not skinny. My advice is to take a few tunika or a longer, light cardigan with you.

I was lucky to know that already before my flight to Iran, so I ordered a very light one from the Monki store. Surprisingly most of the women I have met during my trip liked my dress and wanted to know immediately where I have bought it. Just like anywhere else, nearly every younger woman in Iran is totally into fashion, so it is no wonder that you can see many very well-dressed girls on the street.

However, whether hip or not hip, it’s a fact that you need a long dress you can wear in public. Otherwise not doing it can the same consequences than not wearing a hijab. But don’t panic, many persian women in the bigger cities like Tehran also wear tighter, more colorful and more stylish trench coats. Chapeau to that!

Hint: Don’t mix up a Manto with a Chador, these black, huge cloaks, where the only thing that is uncovered is the woman’s face. You really don’t have to wear that!

Long clothes

The most important thing first: No legs, no arms, no skin! Leggings, jeans, linen-pants, skirts, dresses, everything is allowed. Important is to wear it in a long version, because every dress has to reach down to the ankles. And I REALLY MEAN to the ankles. My worst experience was in the extrem hot and sandy city of Yazd in the south of Iran, where I made the “mistake” to wear a black dress, which was 4 cm too short to cover my ankles and feet. As a result everybody just starred at me and at my feet, from man to woman, from children to elderlies. That was not so nice.

But then again the dress code can be very different from place to place. While in one city something is completely forbidden, it might be tolerated in the next. In any case, I would recommend to try every piece of clothing at home first, just to see how long and covering it really is.

Actually there is something you can choose more loose: the upper-wear. Of course it should never be tight or transparent, but long. Here is a little tip: roll up your sleeves at anytime just as I did. A little bit entertainment is essential, you know.

Women to women, men to men

Although the intercourse between the sexes is quite easy, in some situations it is better for an equal western woman in Iran to just shut up and stay on the sideline.

For example, a man welcomes women in Iran usually only verbally, not by handshake. In case they know each other better men give each other a hand or even a hug.

That is actually a kind of behavior that you can see nearly everywhere: In the bus a woman in Iran just sits next to another woman, next to her husband or nobody. In the subway there are even special train compartments for women, but they are also allowed to use the normal ones if they want to.

Another thing is that any physical contact between a men and a woman in Iran, and even more between unmarried couples, is officially forbidden in public!

Also for unmarried couples it’s not easy to meet in public and act out their relationship. Even better: Unmarried Persian couples are not able to get a hotel room. Maybe only with fake rings… That is why in Iran, as long as you are not married, you usually live at home with your parents, what is driving the marriage rate and the divorce rate rapidly in height. On the other hand, Clemens and me, as a Western unmarried tourist couple, had no problems to get a hotel room at all. When someone asked us, if we were married, we just answered with a smile and a friendly nod.

Female intuition is not prohibited

For any woman who wants to travel to Iran or go backpacking in Iran this small set of rules is, of course, something unusual and at first it might look quite awkward. Basically, I would still suggest to just comply with these rules.

Of course it is annoying, but you will get used to it quite fast. Above all, you’ll know when to relax the rules a bit and what reactions you have to expect. Similarly, to speak to unknown guys in public is not really a problem. You are allowed to talk to each other, you are allowed to laugh together, you are allowed to order your coke in the restaurant by yourself.

And this brings me to the last big question: Why are the people of Iran doing all this? Do they like it at all? And what has a headscarf to do with religion?